1st Course: Australia's Oldest Crypt

Title: Crypt of St James and the Childrens Chapel
Status: Open to the Public
Distance: 20 minutes Walk
Location: Queens Square
Cost: Free

Imagine Sydney's oldest church built by Australia's first architect back in 1820. For such an important historic building, it is surprising how few people find this beautiful place. But now imagine that underneath the church in the simple crypt lies one of Sydneys best kept secrets. Have a look at the photographs in the Photo Album at right to discover the beauty of the murals that adorn this half sized chapel (complete with children's-size dark wood pews and pint sized altar.)

The chapel was made in the 1920's and contains the co-operative efforts of some of Australia's finest modernist artists of the day particularly Ethel and Bethia Anderson, Gwen and Jean Ramsay, Roi de Mestre, and Roland Wakelin. The space was treated like an illuminated manuscript with the images surrounded with gold leaf, and with a vaulted ceiling of flowers, sky and gold leaf. It is simply beautiful.

Included in the design are reminders of the day, such as the beginnings of the arches of Sydney Harbour Bridge being built then. A romantic touch is the use of Bethia Anderson's future husband as the face of St John the Baptist. Bethia might be forgiven for making this St John the Baptist possibly the most handsome in all Christendom.

Despite the touches of the day, the design is based on the Christmas carol 'I Saw Three Ships' with the difference that now the Holy Family is sailing into Sydney Harbour instead of Bethlehem. The Madonna of the Ship shows Sydney Heads in the background.

As I sat under a sycamore tree,
A sycamore tree, a sycamore tree,
I looked me out upon the sea,
On Christ's Sunday at morn.

I saw three ships a sailing there,
A sailing there, a sailing there;
Jesu, Mary and Joseph they bare,
On Christ's Sunday at morn.

Jesu did whistle, and Mary did sing,
Mary did sing, Mary did sing,
And all the bells on Earth did ring,
For joy, our Lord was born.

O they sailed in to Bethlehem,
To Bethlehem, to Bethlehem;
St Micheal was the steersman,
Saint John sate in the horn.

And all the bells on Earth did ring,
On Earth did ring, on Earth did ring,
Welcome be thou, Heaven's King,
On Christ's Sunday at morn.

Ethel Anderson, it appeared liked  the patina of age and requested that no  restoration work be carried out in her lifetime. She died in 1958, and her wishes were  kept for many years. Unfortunately, unforseen by the original artist's, the natural salts in Sydney sandstone started to endanger the mural's existence with the result that in 1992  Claude Cox, who had been present when the murals were first made, left  a large bequest for their conservation. Since that time the  murals have been  lovingly restored  using methods usually reserved for the most treasured  ancient  artworks in Europe.

The crypt of St James Church can be found by entering the simple stone arch on the west wall. A special treat is the many reproductions of photographs and engravings showing the changing appearance of St James over the last 185 years that are displayed on the Church notice board near the crypt entrance. They prove that the older this lady gets, the more beautiful she becomes.